Artuklu doesn't really give you an evening to plan — the town just hands you one. Climb the stone streets and you're looking down at the plain from under the citadel; head the other way and you're swallowed by the university crowd. Narrow alleys, stone houses, and that flat stretch of Mesopotamia running off toward the horizon — every turn already has an opinion. When you can't pick, let the dice pick; the stones will do the rest.